Monday 28 May 2018

2 weeks in the Philippines!

M like Manila (two days)


Manila is not a city, it is in fact a massive conurbation made up of fourteen cities and three municipalities, covering 63 square kilometres and home to almost 10 million people. I think it's good to know this before deciding to visit it.



According to most bloggers and guides we read before coming here, Manila is not really worth a stop, as there are some many other more beautiful places to see in the Philippines, especially if you are short with time. I have to say I don't 100% agree with this.  We arrived at 5 in the evening and, after a quick check-in our airbnb flat to drop our bags and have a shower  (bear in mind we had been travelling for 36 hours: London - Paris,  Paris - Dubai, Dubai - Manila, imagine the joy after that shower... bliss!), we headed to the Greenbelt, a massive, ultra - modern shopping mall in the heart of the Makati district (only 10 - minutes walk from our flat), and we have to say, we were definitely not short of choices for food! it's a stark contrast with the dire poverty of the city you come across on your way from the airport.



Next day we took a taxi to the historical neighbourhood of Intramuros, the old Spanish capital of Manila and the one place where you get a real sense of history. It is a city within the city, separated from the rest of Manila by its crumbling walls. Here you can find the few sights the city has to offer: the Manila Cathedral, the even prettier San Augustin church and its magnificent Baroque interior,  the Fort Santiago, a prison and a torture chamber under the Spanish regime. Whilst strolling along the gardens in the Fort Santiago, we visited the Rizal Shrine Museum, and the room where the write and revolutionary José Rizal spent the hours before his execution in Bagumbayan. A tasty brunch at the Mitra restaurant before a walk along cobbled streets, stone houses and grassy courtyards, Spanish architecture, legacy of the colonial past of this country.

And that's about it... That was all the time we spent in Manila. I am happy to have visited the capital city for half a day. It's not mind-blowing, that is for sure, but I always feel like it's a shame to go past a place you've heard about so many times in your life, and not take time to see it even if for a short time.

By the way, travelling from one part of the city to the other can easily be done by taxis. These are not expensive (like the cost of life here in general), just make sure you take the metered ones, to avoid scams.

B like Boracay (two days)

The flight from Manila to Caticlan airport lasts about an hour. The company we took was Cebu Pacific and the service was impeccable. Prices during peak season ranged from £30 to £40, and that's pretty much the same amount of money for all internal flights in the Philippines (good to know, as if you're planning planning a trip here, flying really is the option.



Once you get to the airport, you will directed to a shuttle, then a jetty (the boat trip is no longer than 20 minutes), then a taxi, a van or a tricycle to your hotel or hostel, where we found our friend Josh, who was at that time travelling around South East Asia for four months.

Boracay turned out to be exactly what we expected, although perhaps a bit more tacky than we were told. Apparently, so different  from the laidback Boracay from the seventies and eighties, you can tell that mass tourism has hit this once peaceful paradise big time. Admittedly, the messy and unplanned constructions are a visible problem for the little island, which, according to some online articles we read, will be closed to the public for at least a year.

Positives are the 7-km-long white sandy beach and the whole blissful experience that comes with it: paradise, heat, palm trees, (amazingly cheap) cocktails, party life, beach full body massages, alfresco dinners, spectacular sunsets... no wonder it is the number 1 destination chosen by tourists (foreigners and Philippino alike).

One of the most popular activities in Boracay is simply doing nothing, and that's what we decided to do, once we met up with our friend and ex-housemate Josh, who is now spending four months in Southeast Asia backpacking.


B like Bohol (three days)

Took the ferry from Cebu at 11.40 and arrived in Bohol two hours after. We left a bit later as I bought a new phone, but the first ferry of the day leaves at 5 am, should you want to opt for an early start and enjoy the whole day on the island. There are two companies which run the ferry service and I'd recommend the Super Cat (which we took on the way back). After speaking to a Czech guy we met in a hostel, we decided not to stay on Panglao island, but rather in Tagbilaran, less touristy (therefore cheaper) and more in a more stratetic position for the various trips we did. You can easily rent scooters for 400 pisos a day (all included, and obviously forget about the insurance).



Here is the breakdown of our three days on the island:

Day 1: we visited the  Tarsiers Sanctuary and Alona Beach on Panglao island in the evening. Dinner with fresh fish  on the beach, grilled in front of us, together with a vast choice of meats and fresh vegetables is highly recommended (the name of the restaurant (Isis) is a bit unfortunate but also easy to remember! 



Day 2: we visited the Chocolate Hills (where we experienced a short but potent outburst of torrential rain) and then headed back to Along Beach for dinner.  We then booked the excursion for the next day.  

Day 3: very early departure (6 am) from Alona Beach for an excursion, which included dolphin watching, snorkeling on a sandy beach island whose name I can't recall, and the breathtaking Virgin island. Afternoon was dedicated to relax and suntanning. We were not that impressed by Alona Beach on the first day, as we arrived in the evening and we took the wrong turn, but we completely changed our mind when we saw it during the day. The colour of the water is just undescribable... worth a swim!

We need to mention that an another option for the excursion could have been the trip to Oslob to experience a swim with the whale sharks. Admittedly we spoke to some tourists who had done it, and they said it was an unmissable and unforgettable experience, but we decided not to do it as we've read that the conditions in which the animals are treated are rather dubious.



Tricycles and jeepneys are the most common means of transport in cities, and it's a constant reminder of how religious this country try is.

The following day was spent traveling: we had to leave early from Tagbilaran to catch a trycicle, a ferry, a taxi, a plane and a van. For a total of 15 hours traveling,and we arrived in the popular resort of El Nido at 9 pm, exhausted but ready for a dinner on the beach, followed by quite a few cocktails.


Palawan, El Nido and island-hopping (5 days).

We eventually like El Nido after spending 5 days there, but it was definitely not love at first sight.

What was impressive as soon as we set foot there, was the sight of the two hills facing the beach, the silhouette of which we could just about see the first night we arrived there. and was confirmed the following day.



The beach in El Nido is not pretty, if you want to experience a mini Boracay white - sandy beach you have to rent a motorbike or a van and head to Nacban beach, 45 minutes away. We did that on day 4, and we were  not at all deceived. The beach stretches for a couple of kilometres, the colour of the water is the same you see on postcards, and, despite a few Western tourists there, the place still feels quite authentic and it's possible to go for a walk and enjoy some piece and quiet in a breathtaking scenary.

El Nido is busy and fun at night, but not a raucous and Ibiza-like party place as Boracay or Alona Beach. As I said, we liked it more and more as days went by. The highlight of our stay there was the island-hopping, you can  choose between four tours,  named A to D, which can sometimes be combined. We did the most popular one (tour A), and, wow... were we impressed!

Just enjoy some pictures down here before making up your mind and set foot on one of these beautiful islands!




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