Plovdiv

Plovdiv is the second largest city in Bulgaria, centre of the Thrace Tourist Region and the European Capital of Culture 2019. Standing proudly by the 7 hills and situated at the crossroads between the West and the East, Plovdiv is a place where history and modern age go hand in hand.

Apparently, it is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe and one of the oldest cities in the world - Plovdiv is contemporary of ancient Troy and Mycenae, and it was founded before Rome, Athens and Constantinople.

Important sites are:

- the Roman Stadium at the heart of the city (when the city was called Philippopolis)

- the Ancient Theatre - one of the best preserved in the World

- Roman mosaics in the Small Basilica

- the Old Town of Plovdiv with its splendid Bulgarian Revival-style wooden-frame houses dating back to 18th and 19^th and preserving historical layers of prehistoric, Thracian, Roman.

- the Dzhumaya Mosque

- the Ethnographic Museum

- The "Kapana" district. This is the area to the creative industries. Our guide told us that most of the beautiful houses one can see there now have been renovated when Plovdiv was assigned the Capital of Culture. Before that this neighborhood was the old Ottoman quarter and it was hectic and confusing, resembling a labyrinth or a ‘trap’, hence the name Kapana. Here you can also find some beautiful street art, which was commissioned by the Municipality on occasion of the 2019 European City of Culture.

Kosovo

It's one of those places I've heard and read so much about, but would have not automatically associated with tourism or sightseeing. I am really glad I went (many thanks to my friend Donjeta who was born there and gave me suggestions and precious tips.

Europe's newest country, Kosovo is a fascinating land at the heart of the Balkans rewarding visitors with welcoming smiles, charming mountain towns, incredible hiking opportunities and 13th-century domed Serbian monasteries brushed in medieval art – and that's just for starters.

Pristina is a city in transition,with a very intense and troubled recent history, yet with an endless potential and a bright future ahead, from what I've heard and gathered, at least. Kosovans are friendly and proudly welcoming visitors. They have given me a very good impression:

My recommendations on what to see:

- Mother Teresa Catholic Church

- Newborn Monument

- Mother Theresa Boulevard with its numerous cafés, restaurants and shops

- The National Library

- Ethnographic Museum

- Bill Clinton Statue

- The National Theatre

- Germia Park

- Fatih Mosque

- Bazaar

Sofia

I spent three days in this city, and I really have the impression that its centre is not very spread out and all the main sights are quite close to each other, which is great if you are planning to stay here only for a few days. The city is vibrant and offers so much! I have to say, I am happy with what I managed to see, although an extra ‘sunny’ and warmer day would have allowed me to do the 2-hour walk, which starts from the Boyana Church and takes you to the peak of the Vitosha Mount… However, the weather was not that kind with me during these mid-September days.

Sofia is Bulgaria’s capital and its largest city. Founded thousands of years ago, today the city continues to develop as the country’s cultural and economic centre. It is located in the western part of the country, on the Sofia Plain and the lower slopes of Mount Vitosha. The city is located at a strategic crossroads. The route from Western Europe to Istanbul passes through Sofia via Belgrad and Skopje, then through Plovdiv to Turkey. Sofia also connects The Near East and The Middle East, lying between the banks of the Danube and the shores of the White Sea on the one hand, and between the Black Sea and the Adriatic on the other.

Sofia has been settled for many millennia. In honor of its hot springs, in the 8th century BC the Thracian tribes settled here gave the city its first name – Serdika. In the 1st century BC, Serdika was captured by the Romans, who transformed it into a Roman city. It was the favorite city of Constantine the Great (reign 306-337), who said: “Serdika is my Rome.” In roughly 175, massive fortified walls, with four watchtowers were built to protect the city, and a second outer fortified wall was added during the 5th-6th centuries. From 1018-1094, the city was under Byzantine rule, but remained an important strategic, economic, and cultural center. During the time of the Second Bulgarian Empire (1185-1393), Sredets took on the appearance of a large Medieval city – its narrow, crowded streets witnessed the construction of more and more small churches and monasteries, which later became Sofia’s Holy Mountain. The city gained its present name at the end of the 14th century, in honor of the city’s major symbol, The Saint Sofia Basilica.

In 1382, the city fell to the Ottomans. It was liberated five centuries later, in 1878, and on April 3, 1879, it was declared the capital of the newly-liberated Bulgarian nation.

Sofia preserves many valuable monuments to its long and storied past.

The Saint Sofia Basilica is one of the oldest churches in the capital. It was the city’s major church during the Middle Ages, and under the Ottomans, it was used as a mosque. Very close to Saint Sofia is The Memorial Church Saint Alexander Nevsky, now one of the city’s most recognizable symbols. Directly across from the church is The National Gallery of Art, which often exhibits works by world-famous artists. The oldest church in Sofia is the Saint George Rotunda, now surrounded by imposing buildings built during the Socialist period with the intent to make the church less visible. There is also the Banya Bashi Mosque, built in the 16th century. Not far from the mosque is a Synagogue, which houses a museum.

There is hardly another city in all of Europe that has so many noteworthy Christian, Islamic, and Jewish monuments so close together.

In the immediate vicinity, other historical remains are preserved, such as the Municipal Baths (now a museum), the marketplace, and The Holy Sunday Church, the St. Nedelya Cathedral Church.

Right in front of this museum is the Russian Church of Saint Nikolay Church, which is an architectural landmark. The Parliament Building, Monument to the Liberator (in honor of the Russian Tsar Alexander II, who was instrumental in freeing Bulgaria from Ottoman rule), and the campus of Sofia University “Saint Kliment Ohradski” are three more of the city’s major symbols. Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful buildings in Sofia is the Ivan Vazov National Theater.

On the lower slopes of Mount Vitosha, in the Boyana District, is located the National Museum of History, with its collection from prehistoric times to the present day and close to the museum is the Boyana Church, one of the Bulgarian monuments that are listed among the UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Sofia’s parks are a favorite place for rest and recreation. Borisov Park is right in the center of the city, and South Park is next to the National Palace of Culture.

One of Sofia’s favorite spots for both visitors and residents is Vitosha Boulevard. Being a pedestrian zone, it is a very pleasant place for strolling and relaxation. In general, the capital is a shoppers’ delight, since Sofia is still one of the major crossroads on the Balkan Peninsula for a trade of all kinds.

The Cyclades islands

Ten days in The Cyclades islands:

The most famous island group in the Aegean Sea comprises some of the most beautiful islands in the world! You can expect gorgeous sandy beaches, architecture in white and blue, traditional lifestyle, folk music, warm, hospitable people, and barren landscapes with isolated chapels.

Anything else, you might ask… Well, food is not bad either! Here are the three islands I visited:

Naxos

Naxos is the biggest and the greenest island in the Cyclades. It has high mountains, fertile valleys, lush green gorges, stunning seascapes, and traditional villages perched high on mountain tops, where the inhabitants still wear their traditional dress and live off the fruits of the land. Naxos is also home to beautiful old churches and monasteries.

The landmark of Chora, the capital of Naxos is an imposing Venetian castle, is an old castle town with stone paved alleys where you can admire a unique blend of Cycladic and Medieval architecture.

There are numerous breathtaking routes on this island, which makes it the most loved one by hikers (I could only do a couple of those, due to time constraints).

The most popular traditional villages to visit around the island are: Aperathos is a colourful mountainous village home to five museums, stone-built houses, beautiful squares and narrow alleys paved with marble, and Panagia Drosiani, a beautiful church of the Early Christian Period and Filoti is a picturesque mountainous village, built on the top of a rock, surrounded by lush vegetation with cube-shaped houses and narrow stone-paved alleys.

Mykonos

I went on a day trip from Naxos. In contrast to other Cycladic capitals, the capital town (Hóra) of the island is not built in the shape of an amphitheatre but instead spreads out over a wide area. It is just amazing to stroll around its narrow marble streets and admire whitewashed houses with colourful doors and window frames, bougainvillea trees in purple bloom and hidden churches. There are 1,200, one for each inhabitant of the small island

One of the most scenic corners of the island is the so called “Little Venice”, an 18th century district, dominated by grand captains’ mansions with colourful balconies and stylish windows. With balconies perched over the sea, pictures of the famous Italian city spring to mind. You can relax at a waterfront café and admire the view of the quaint windmills standing imposingly on the hillside above, set against a luminous blue backdrop.

Using the Hora as your base, set out on a trip to discover the beauties of the island, in particularly its beaches. Along the southern coast you will find a great selection of the most cosmopolitan ones. Here, wild parties keep the crowds rocking day and night. I walked from Hora to Paraga beach (nearly two hours’ away, I know, I am crazy!) and from there to Paradise beach.

If you find yourself in Mykonos take the opportunity to explore the tiny archaeological gem of Delos, just a short boat trip away. Delos was a sacred island in ancient times, and according to mythology was the birthplace of the twin gods Apollo and Artemis.

Santorini

Crescent-shaped Santorini (or Thira), the precious gem of the Aegean, is actually a group of islands consisting of Thira, Thirassia, Aspronissi, Palea and Nea Kameni in the southernmost part of Cyclades.

The whole complex of Santorini islands is still an active volcano and probably the only volcano in the world whose crater is in the sea. The islands that form Santorini came into existence as a result of intensive volcanic activity.

Santorini is considered to be the most sought-after place for a romantic getaway in Greece, since there are not many places in the world where you can enjoy exquisitely clear waters while perched on the rim of a massive active volcano in the middle of the sea! The island has a growing reputation as a “wedding destination” for couples not only from Greece but from all over the world.

Fira is the picturesque capital of the island; perched high up on the edge of the Caldera, it looks like a marvellous painting. Fira, together with Oia, Imerovigli and Firostefani located high above on a cliff, make up the so-called “Caldera’s eyebrow”, the balcony of Santorini, which offers an amazing view of the volcano.

You can visit the volcanic island in front of the Caldera: there is a boat trip for 20 euros, it lasts three hours and you get to climb up to the volcano craters on top and also stop at the nearby hot spings.

There are some other villages around the island, some are more cosmopolita,  some more peaceful; they are surrounded by vast vineyards.

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki is the second largest city of Greece and the most important centre of the area. I personally found it beautiful and charming, perhaps more authentic than all the other places I have visited before. Not to forget that it is cheaper than Athens and it has got an astounding culinary offer! Thessaloniki has a fascinating history and a cosmopolitan character. I have learnt about its past thanks to the free walking tour of the upper city, and our fantastic guide, George. So much so, that I did another tour with him the following day, this time focused on Greek mythology. I cannot stress enough how informative and fun these free tours are. They are now a must in all the cities I go to!

To start off with, Thessaloniki is in Macedonia, and I think the best thing for you to do if, like me, you are not very familiar with the geopolitical aspects of this region, is to check out a Youtube video or any online article on the dispute between North Macedonia and Greece because of the name: Macedonia. It might sound trivial for an outsider, but it is quite a heated topic in the region.

The city’s centuries-old multicultural history has been associated with great empires, as it has known the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman Rule. The town was also greatly influenced by many ethnic and religious groups (Jews, Latins, Armenians and others) as well as Greeks from Constantinople, Pontus (modern-day northeastern Turkey) and Asia Minor (a.k.a. Anatolia). Its history is truly engrossing, and I suggest you read up on it if you get the chance.

The numerous monuments, dating to many historical periods, coexist in a singular and charming way and manifest Thessaloniki’s historical multicultural and cosmopolitan nature.

You can visit four of Thessaloniki's main sites with a 15-euro combined ticket, which gives you access to: the Rotunda (an early 4th century building which later was converted into a Christian church), the White Tower (15th century) which is the hallmark of the city, the Archaeological Museum, and the Byzantine Museum, all worth visiting in my opinion.

The central square, called Aristotelous Square is surrounded by monumental buildings and open to the waterfront for a width of 100 metres and is a focal point of the city.

Amongst the Roman ruins are the ancient forum, the thermae, the hippodrome, the temples, the Triumphal Arch of Galerius (Kamara), built in AD 305 to commemorate his military successes in general in the eastern provinces of the Roman Empire.

Wandering through the city you will see so many Byzantine monuments and that is why Thessaloniki is justifiably considered an open-air museum of Byzantine art. In addition, several amazing Ottoman monuments.

The byzantine walls of the city are in the Old City (Ano Polis), and you’ll need to climb quite a lot of stairs to reach this part of the city. Here you can find many notable examples of Ottoman and traditional Macedonian architecture still standing, alongside humble dwellings put up by the refugees who reached Thessaloniki in droves, after the Greek defeat in Asia Minor, in 1922. Our guide told us this area is completely different from the rest of the city, mainly because it has not been affected by the big fire of 1917, which destroyed a large portion of the city and left 70,000 people homeless.

What else…. Mount Olympus is also worth a mention: you can kind of see it from most parts of Thessaloniki: it is the highest mountain in Greece. At a height of 2,918m above sea level, it towers over Northern Greece, and can be seen as far away as Thessaloniki. It is situated on the borders of Thessaly and Macedonia. Our guide told us you can take walks there and spend the night in a refuge. Unfortunately, I did not get to experience this, but I plan to do it next time for sure.

If you want to get a real taste of the city, I would say ideally at least three days should be spent there.

Athens

I think I have really managed to make my most of my ten days in Athens, and my stay would have not been as pleasant and smooth had I not been staying at Kostas and Andreas’ place: Greek hospitality at its best, really, they could have not been kinder and friendlier and I am extremely grateful for all the road trips, taste of authentic Greek cuisine (home-made and restaurants and tavernas recommendations), tips on the sights and must-see places by these two locals! 

If there is one thing I have learnt during my travels over the years is that the experience is so much better when you are lucky enough to be with people who live in that place and can show you the hidden gems of the city. For Athens it was a little street market in occasion of the annual name day of the Church, the local places selling Pita Ghiros and traditional Greek desserts, the funky and alternative neighborhood, called Keraimeikos (basically Athen’s version of Shoreditch and Hackney).

Back to the sights! Ten days is longer than most tourists would spend in the city. As far what to see and where to go, there is a 30 euro- ticket you can buy and it gives you access to the following six sights:

The Acropolis and its slopes, the Ancient and the Roman Agora, Hadrian’s library, the Kerameikos cemetery, the Olympieion and the Lykeion (Aristotele’s school). The first two are in my opinion the real highlights not to be missed, the rest is a nice little extra, but not as thrilling!

The so-called Sacred Rock of the Acropolis with the Parthenon is the landmark of Athens and one of the most significant sights in Greece, what you see on all postcards (little fun fact: I still send them to family and friends: I think it’s a true rarity these days!). The Ancient Agora was the heart of the Athenians public life and my personal advice is to start your walk from Thissio station and make your way all around the perimeter of the premises of the Ancient Agora and all along Apostolou Pavlou street, then to Dionysiou Areopagitou street and all around the park. You won’t regret it, the sights are truly amazing, especially if it is your first visit in Athens!

One should also complete the visits of the Acropolis with the Acropolis Museum, where most of the statues and parts of the Parthenon are to be found today.

The other museums I visited are the Archeological Museum and the National Gallery, whereas I skipped the Benaki Museum, the Benaki museum of Islamic Art and the Byzantine and Christian Museum, and many others you might want to consider to visit, if museums are your thing. Also, a tiny but highly engaging and interactive experience at the Museum of the Academy of Plato, which took me back 20 years to my Philosophy lessons at school, where Socrates and Plato where the first topics of the course we studied. It feels all so much more real and it comes to life when you visit the actual sight where these philosophers lived and ‘thought’.

These are the areas I recommend you go to: Syntagma Square with the Hellenic Parliament, Monastiraki Square, Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, the National Garden and the Zappeio, the area of Plaka, the Lycabettus Hill (with Saint George’s chapel), where you get a magnificent view of the city (although you will probably need to arrange to go there by car or taxi). We went at night, and the sight of the illuminated Acropolis is definitely worth a visit!

The city of Athens is famous for hosting the place of the revival of the Olympic Games in 1896 (the modern version basically), and for hosting the Games in 2004. That’s why the Panathenaic Stadium is a must-see, also because of the tradition of the Olympic Torch Relay, which takes place here every four years.

We also went to see the exhibition called Portals, in the former Public Tobacco Factory, on the theme of immigration and encounter of cultures. I personally loved it, whereas Kostas and Andreas did not think much of it! Here is a link in case anyone is interested. I also visited the Technopolis City of Athens and its Industrial Gas Museum.

The boys took me to the Piraeus and to some very lively areas by the Port where plenty of cafés, restaurants and yachts are. I also went back there one afternoon on my own to check out the two areas of Pasalimani and Mikrolimano. The Pireaus is easily accessible by Overgound, about 25 minutes from the centre of town, and it is great for half a day out!

We also spent a day out at the Kape beach and paid a visit to the temple of Apollon, which looks over the sea.

Needless to say, the weather has been gorgeous throughout my stay, a bit too hot at times (bear in mind I was there at the end of August, beginning of September).

Time to move on to the Greek Islands now! First stop: Naxos!